Organizing the World one closet at a time since 1993 . . .


Complete Printable Version
History and Milestones (Print)
Features & Benefits of Gregory Hardwood Shelving (Print)
Gregory Ventilated Hardwood Advantages (Print)
Gregory Design Concepts (Print)
Wardrobe Storage Analysis (Print)
Frequently Asked Gregory Questions (Print)
Tools and Supplies (Print)
Abbreviations (Print)
Recommended Screws (Print)
Installation Tips (Print)
Operating Tips and Remnant Management (Print)
Shelf Installation (Print)
Kwik Installation (Print)
Gregory Cutting Procedures (Print)

The Gregory Tradition
In the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains quality workmanship and hardwood come together at the center of America’s furniture industry. The traditions of fine woodworking has been handed down from generation to generation. Carefully crafted using selected hardwoods and lacquer , Gregory’s Hardwood Shelving adds beauty, value and efficient storage organization to any home.

History and Milestones
Ventilated hardwood shelving had its beginnings in coastal Florida, where seasonal residents sometimes discovered rust stained garments when they returned to the warm (humid) semi-tropical climate of the region. Like most industries, in the beginning there were several manufacturers. Even wire shelving manufacturers offered ventilated hardwood shelving. Most of those ventures were too small to succeed. Now there is Gregory Wood Products:
1993 Gregory opens in a small factory located in Fleetwood, NC near the Blue Ridge Parkway manufacturing wood shelving for LeeRowan®.
1995 Gregory introduces its own brand name and quality standards.
1999 USI acquires Gregory and begins to up-grade and enlarge Gregory’s manufacturing capacity.
2000 New “Clear Coat” smooth gloss finish and Deluxe Garment Rail are introduced.
USI commits sufficient funds and resources to develop Gregory into the nationally recognized leader of the wood shelving industry.
2001 Automatic nailing equipment further increases production capacity, relocation into 40,000 sq. ft. Virginia facility and acquisition of Country Wood Products adds Kenosa™ brand shelving.
2002 Super Smooth Gregory shelf finish introduced.
14” Ventilated Shelf introduced.
Video available in both VHS & CD format for marketing & training.
2003 Kwik Shelf introduced.
Features & Benefits of Gregory Hardwood Shelving
  • Solid Hardwood

    Natural Beauty of Real Wood Through & Through
  • Durability

    Kiln Dried Ash Rails Resist Warping & Splitting
  • Ventilated Construction

    Increased Air Circulation for Fresher Garments
  • No Waste

    You Pay for What You Get
  • Pre-finished Product

    No Callbacks or Punch List Concerns
  • Versatility

    Design Storage for Personal Needs & Tastes
  • Efficiency

    Full Use of Available Storage Space
  • Hardware

    Designed for Strong Installation
  • Lasting Beauty

    Final “Clear Coat” Adds Luster & Durability
  • Easy to Install

    Installs in avg. 2000 ft2 house in 4-hours
  • Easy to Maintain

    Cleans with Mild Soap & Water
  • Value Added

    Aesthetic Upgrade Over Conventional Shelving
  • Compatibility

    Mix ‘n Match with Other Finishes
  • Reliability

    Owned by USI – a Building Services Company
  • Best Warranty

    Free Lifetime Replacement of Defective Parts
  • Training

    Videos and Manual Available
    Gregory Ventilated Hardwood Advantages
  • Solid Ash & Birch Construction
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  • no poplar secondary wood
     
  • no premium charged for solid ash
     
  • an upsell opportunity without any cost penalty
  • Product Leadership
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  • all hardwood is kiln dried to US hardwood standards
     
  • critical joints are glued & nailed for added strength
     
  • slats are a full 3/8” x 3/4” – not just 1/4” x 5/8”
     
  • slats used for strength & ventilation – not round dowels
     
  • slats spaced 1/2” apart – not 5/8” spacing – competing brands charge a premium for tight spacing – an upsell opportunity without any cost penalty
     
  • reversible – front rail same profile as back rail permits exposing the most attractive grain pattern
     
  • full dimensioned rails – less apt to split during installation
     
  • maintenance – glossy lacquered finish easily cleaned with mild soap & water
     
  • lasting beauty – standard “clear coat” finish and optional Deluxe Garment Rail provide protection for years of natural beauty
    Gregory Design Concepts
    Most Gregory closets systems consist of combinations of one or more of the following:
    Long Hang (Single Hang)
     
  • Typically hung at 68”
  • For dresses, outer wear, robes and trousers hung from their cuffs
  • Typically less than 20% of hanging space
  • Double Hang
     
  • Typically hung at 84” and 42”
  • For men’s garments as well as women’s blouses & skirts
  • Shoe Rack
     
  • Created by inverting a 12” ventilated shelf
  • Typically begin 12” above the floor & space vertically at 8” or 9” intervals
  • Stack of Shelves
     
  • For linen closets, pantries and bedroom closets
  • Typically begin 16” above the floor & space vertically at 13” intervals
  • Typically 24” to 36” wide to accommodate most folded items efficiently
  • Wardrobe Storage Analysis
    Vertical Hanging Length:
    Men's Shirts 38” to 40”
    Men's Suits 36” to 40”
    Men’s Trousers & Jeans 28” to 36”
    Men’s Trousers / Hung at Cuffs 55” to 60”
    Women’s Dresses 43” to 60”
    Women’s Jackets & Blazers 27” to 40”
    Women’s Skirts 23” to 43”
    Women’s Pants & Jeans 28” to 30”
    Women’s Blouses 25” to 44”
    Horizontal Space for Hanging:
    Shirts & Blouses 12 per foot
    Suits, Jackets, Blazers & Outer Wear 6 per foot
    Dresses, Skits, Trousers, Slacks & Jeans 10 per foot
    Down Winter Outer Wear 5 per foot
    Horizontal Shelf Spacing for Folded Items:
    Sweaters & Sweatshirts 10” to 12”
    Linens & Towels 11” to 12”
    Men’s Shoes / Per Pair 8” to 9”
    Women’s Shoes / Per Pair 6” to 7”
    Frequently Asked Gregory Questions
    1) Q – HOW FAR APART DO I SPACE THE BACK CLIPS?
      A – Back Clips are also designed to attach to ½” drywall. If attachment is made only to the drywall, space the Back Clips 12” apart. If 5/8” drywall is encountered, clip the anchor wings and attach to studs using a #8 x 2” Pan Head screw. Spacing 16” apart is recommended if attachment is made to studs. On open ends, install a Back Clip in-line with the Shelf Support. Install two (2) adjacent Back Clips if only attached to the drywall.

    2) Q – DO I NEED TO HIT A STUD?
      A – Hitting a stud is preferred. Clip the anchor wings when attaching to studs.

    3) Q – HOW DO I SUPPORT THE FRONT OF THE SHELF?
      A – Wall End Brackets are used to support the front of the shelf. Additional support is recommended by also installing a Shelf Support at the first stud out from the side wall. To support open ends, use either Shelf Supports or Support Poles.
    4) Q – HOW FAR APART SHOULD SHELF SUPPORTS BE SPACED?
      A – Space them up to 36” apart. Every other 16” centered stud is good.

    5) Q – HOW EASY IS IT TO INSTALL THE SHELVES?
      A – Even a non-professional having modest skill can install Gregory shelving. The only basic tools required are a circular saw, level, tape measure, pencil and an electric drill with bits. A simple closet layout can be completed in a couple of hours. A professional, fully equipped and trained, can install complex closets quickly.

    6) Q – HOW HIGH SHOULD I INSTALL THE SHELVES?
      A – For single tier long hang, the shelf should be 68” above the finished floor. For double tier short hang over short hang, the shelves should be 84” and 42” high. Storage shelf stacks are spaced per preference. Shoe Racks should begin 12” above the finished floor.

    7) Q – CAN I INCORPORATE WIRE BASKETS WITH WOOD SHELVING?
      A – Yes! Trim the leading edge of each basket with Gregory’s 18” Basket Pulls complete with installation hardware (Item #4093) to coordinate wire with Gregory wood shelving.

    8) Q – HOW MUCH WEIGHT WILL GREGORY WOOD SHELVING SUPPORT?
      A – The design weight is 50 pounds per square foot. Our installation instructions are designed to easily achieve this load capacity. Experience shows that garment storage generally falls well below this limit.

    9) Q – CAN I INSTALL GARMENT RAILS ON 16” WIDE SHELVING?
      A – No! The potential loads could create enough force (or moment) to cause a failure.

    10) Q – CAN I INSTALL GARMENT RAILS ON SOLID TOP SHELVING?
      A – This is NOT recommended simply because people tend to believe Solid Top shelving has greater load capacity and, therefore, the added weight of garments is more likely to achieve an overload situation leading to a possible failure, callback and unexpected added cost to you.

    Tools and Supplies
  • Recommended for Professional Installers:
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  • Modified wire shelving installation template (See Modification Instructions)
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  • Battery powered hand-held screw guns (2): 1) drill holes; 2) driving screws
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  • 1/8”, 3/16” and 1/4” drill bits
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  • #2 Phillips type bits with magnetic driver (#2 Square type optional)
  •    
  • Extra rechargeable battery for each screw gun
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  • 25’ long steel tape measure
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  • Carpenter’s levels (2): 2’ long and 4’ long (a Torpedo level in nice, too)
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  • #2 Pencil
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  • Compound miter saw with high quality carbide tipped saw blade
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  • Extra carbide tipped blade
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  • A circular saw may also be used with success
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  • Magnetic stud finder
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  • Tin snips – for clipping plastic hardware when necessary
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  • Color wood putty – to remedy scuffs etc
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  • Hot Glue gun with glue sticks – to secure loose fitting end caps to rail ends
  • Abbreviations
    WEB Wall End Bracket Supports front shelf rail ends at wall abutments
    BC Back Clip Supports rear shelf rail where attached to wall
    If modified, supports rear shelf rail of shoe rack
    EC End Cap Conceals the cut ends of shelf rails
    GREC Garment Rail End Cap Conceals the cut ends of garment rails
    GRH Garment Rail Hangers Connects garment rail to front shelf rail
    KSB Kwik Shelf Bracket Hardwood self leveling shelf support
    KEB Kwik End Bracket Hardwood shelf rail support at wall
    KCS Kwik Corner Support Hardwood support for back shelf rail at corners
    Recommended Screws
    Screw Size, Length & Type Attachment (assumes ½” thick drywall)

    #8 x 3” Pan Head BC to wood studs when BC are more than 16” apart
    #8 x 2” Pan Head BC to wood studs when BC are spaced 16” or less apart
    Shelf support and/or shoe support to wood studs
    WEB to wood framing
    #8 x 1-1/4” Pan or Bugle Head Support pole to shelf rail
    #8 x 1” Pan Head GRH to front shelf rail and GRH to garment rail
    BC and WEB to ½” drywall when no framing is present
    Shelf supports and/or shoe supports to front shelf rail
    #8 x 3 4” Bugle Head BC to rear shelf rail to prevent lifting
    Installation Tips
  • Garment rails should only be installed on 12” wide ventilated shelving. Installation on 16” wide or on any width of solid top shelving is more likely to encourage overloading.
  • WEB and BC alone are not sufficient to support the weight of hung garments; supplementing with shelf supports or support poles is required.
  • Shelves 4’ or longer must have supplemental support.
  • Stacked shelves may be best support using support poles.
  • Best BC attachment practice: Attach every BC to every stud at 16” on centers using a #8 x 2” Pan Head screw.
  • Alternative BC attachment practices:
      1) Attach BC to every stud at 24” on centers using a #8 x 3” Pan Head screw
      2) Attach BC to alternate studs at 32” intervals using a #8 x 3” Pan Head screw
      3) Attach BC to ½” thick drywall at 12” on center using #8 x 1” Pan Head screw to adequately spread the anchoring wings of the BC
  • Shelves may be cantilevered up to 8” beyond the nearest stud mounted BC. The end of every cantilevered shelf must be supported by an extra drywall mounted BC. Use a second screw to mount this extra BC.
  • BEFORE cutting any shelf, the front and back rails must be squared on one end using the compound miter saw. ALL subsequent shelf measurements made on that shelf MUST be taken from the trued end.
    Operating Tips and Remnant Management
    General:
  • Keep hardware, components and tools in a secure area to discourage theft.

  • Establish inventory controls to discourage theft and waste.

  • Retain for future use all shelf remnants 2’ long or longer.

  • Assign cutting tasks to one person who is also responsible for remnant management.

    Setting up an in-shop cutting area:
  • Position the cutting table along an open unused wall in your shop. The table must be long enough to accommodate 12’ shelving components.

  • Use a portable sawdust collector along with the compound miter saw.

  • Equip the sawyer with appropriate eye and respiratory protection.

  • Mark the wall in horizontal 12” & 6” increments as suggested by LeeRowan® to provide the sawyer with an immediate height reference without pulling a measuring tape.

  • Organize retained remnants by length in a convenient location near the cutting table for the sawyer.

  • Post the attached “Gregory Cutting Procedures” near the cutting table.

  • Double check frequently to make sure is following established cutting procedures to ensure that your shelving waste will stay below 5% of inventory.

    Before installation commences:

  • Following the same take-off and measurement sequence for every job helps to avoid omissions and errors. Field-measure every treated area and make neat field sketches on which all measurements are accurately recorded.

  • Cut the shelving closet by closet in the shop, not at the job site.

  • Establish a remnant management program to minimize waste.

  • After cutting, bundle and prepare each closet’s shelving – complete with necessary supports and hardware – and mark the closet’s location on each bundle.

  • Double check take-off. Double check sketch dimensions. Double check cutting sequence. Double check bundles.

    During installation:
  • Try to install after carpet is installed. If not possible, shim support poles with a scrap of shelf slat.

  • Carefully examine every wall before starting to layout. Use a stud finder to locate every stud. Take extra care to try to locate and avoid electrical wires and pipes.

  • Layout and install every closet beginning in the high corner.

    Shelf Installation
    Layout sequence:
  • Confirm closet is ready: trim, paint & carpet installed. If not, notify client.
  • Confirm layout does not interfere with alarms, fixtures, electrical boxes etc.
  • Locate high corner and begin layout.
  • Using a modified wire shelving template, mark the top shelf elevation with a #2 pencil. Put the template away.
  • From that first mark, using the 4’ level and pencil, scribe a level line to mark the top shelf elevation at 84” above the finish floor for long hang.
  • From that line, mark the elevation of another line at 42” above the finish floor for short hang.
  • Similarly mark shelf lines for shelf stacks and shoe racks.
  • Using a stud finder, locate and mark each stud along the 84” elevation line.
    Installing Back Clips attached to wood studs:
  • Using the steel tape, measure down each stud line from the 84” elevation line to mark the location of every BC with the pencil.
  • Drill a ¼” diameter hole at every BC location. Drill only through the drywall, not into the wood stud.
  • Snip the anchor wings off each BC before inserting into each hole.
  • Attach BC using #8 x 2” Pan Head screws screwed into each wood stud.
    Installing BC onto drywall without attaching to wood studs:
  • Do not snip the anchor wings before inserting in holes.
  • Space BC not more than 12” apart.
  • Attach using #8 x 1” Pan Head screw.
    Note: Shelving may be installed without using BC by first drilling 3/16” diameter starter holes through and ½” above the bottom edge of the back shelf rail in line with the center line of each wood stud. Attach the back rail of the shelf to the wall with #8 x 3” Pan Head screws screwed into the wood studs.
    Installing WEB when using BC:
  • Using the steel tape and 2’ carpenter’s level, mark a point on the wall 1-¾ “ below the 84” or 42” elevation line previously marked and out 11-7/8” (for 12” wide) or 15-7/8” (for 16” wide) from the back wall.
  • Drill two ¼” diameter holes through the drywall 1-1/16” above and 11/16” below the mark.
  • Install WEB using a #8 x 2” Pan Head screw into a stud or a #8 x 1” Pan Head screw driven through to spread the anchor wings.
    Note: If shelving is installed without using BC, install the WEB as above except only out 11x5/8” (for 12” wide) or 15-5/8” (for 16” wide) from the back wall.
    To avoid splitting rails with screws: Always predrill a 1/8” diameter pilot hole through rail before driving a screw into any rail.
    For most aesthetic appearance: Before making permanent attachments, temporarily lay shelving in place supported only by BC and WEB. Examine both rails and select the most attractive to become the front rail. Locate and mark to drill each pilot hole.
    Shelf installation sequence:
  • After cutting a shelf to length, note which shelves receive garment rails – then cut the garment rail to length.
  • Attach the GRH, garment rail and shelf supports before installing the shelf:
      1) Mark the location of the garment rail hangers (GRH) on the back side of the front rail – 1” from either end and spaced evenly not more than 32” apart along the length of the garment rail.
      2) Similarly mark the location of the shelf supports so that they align with a wood stud.
      3) Lift the marked shelf off the wall and attach the GRH and shelf supports along the back of the front shelf rail using the proper screw. Remember to predrill pilot holes.
  • Re-set the shelf back on the wall into the BC and WEB for final attachment.
  • Press the back shelf rail to be fully seated in the BC.
  • With the 2’ carpenter’s level, level the shelf and screw attach the shelf support to the wall using a #8 x 2” Pan Head screw. If a shelf support cannot be located in line with a stud, a ¼” diameter wall anchor must be installed to receive the screw.
  • After the shelf is leveled in place, use a #8 x 3/4” Bugle Head screw to attach the back shelf rail through the hole in every BC to prevent the shelf from lifting up when in use.
    Support pole installation: Support poles are most often used to support stacks or shoe racks. Support poles and the rail to which they are attached must always be pre-drilled to avoid splitting when driving the screw.

  • Measure the height of the highest shelf to be supported.
  • If carpet is to later be installed, compensate for its thickness by deducting 3/8” from the cut length – and later shimming with a scrap of shelf slat when leveling the supported shelf.
  • Saw a garment rail to the necessary length.
  • Place the support pole in front of the shelf to be supported and mark the attachment location – then pre-drill a pilot hole.
  • Attach the support pole to every shelf to be supported using a #8 x 1-¼” Pan Head screw.
      Note: An alternative support pole attachment – attach BC to the back of the support pole and rest the supported shelves into the BC. The result is that screw heads remain concealed for a more aesthetic appearance. Adjust your price to include the added BC cost.
    Shoe rack installation: Follow the same sequence as with any other stack of shelves except:

    1) Invert each shelf to create a “curb” to keep shoes in place.
    2) Snip the “toe” off each BC to enable the inverted shelf to drape at an angle.
    3) Shoe shelves over 4’ long must be supported by shoe supports or support poles space no more than 32” apart.
    Angles – Other than 90° corners: Shelves may be mitered using a compound miter saw. In the absence of a full back rail, support the mitered shelf slats using a LeeRowan® vinyl F Channel (#44590) cut to length with snips. Secure the lower leg of the F Channel to the wall by screwing into a wall anchor.
    Field Remedies:
  • Scuffs and/or minor splits may be concealed with color matched wood putty. Follow the wood putty manufacturer’s instructions.
  • Loosely fitting EC or GREC may be secured using a small dab of hot glue applied inside the caps.
    Job site conditions and/or approved layout configurations may require deviation from recommended practices. If so, use common sense and your experience as a guide. Beyond that, contact your sales representative for help.

    Kwik Installation Using Kwik Shelf Brackets (KSB), Kwik End Brackets (KEB), & Kwik Corner Supports (KCS)
    Flat interior wall surfaces facilitate installing cabinets, mirrors, pictures and shelving. Flat surfaced log and/or framed walls, finished using T & G wood siding to give the appearance of log walls are popular choices in log homes. Conventional frame wall finishes include gypsum wallboard or wood paneling.
    A. Installation Layout
    1) Determine the location of the shelves.
    2) Using a level, steel measuring tape and #2 pencil, drow a horizontal line on the wall where each shelf will be installed. This line will be concealed by the shelf's back rail. Use a chalk line if pencil does not show clearly on the wood surface.
    3) If a shelf extends from a corner, mark the location of the first KSB along the horizontal pencil line within 16" of the corner. Make additional marks to locate KSB not more than 32" apart.
    B. KSB Installation:
    1) With 21/4'' long x #8 wood screws, attach the KSB to the log wall. If attachment is to a stud wall framed on 16" centers, screw the KSB to every other stud. On log walls 36" spacing is the maximum.
    2) No more than 8" of shelf should extend beyond the last KSB unsupported.
    C. Garment Rail lnstallation:
    1) After all of the KSB are installed, lay the shelves on the KSB. Care should be taken to place the most pleasingly grained shelf rail toward the front.
    2) With a #2 pencil mark the back of the front rail of each shelf that receives a garment rail. Marks should be no more than 36" apart and spaced evenly and beginning about 2" from shelf end.
    3) Remove the shelves to which garment rails will be attached.
    4) Position the shelf and the garment rail with the front of the shelf face down on a flat surface.
    5) Position garment rail hangers as marked along the length of the shelf.
    6) Position the garment rail hangers behind the shelf's front and the garment rail as marked.
    7) Drill pilot holes through the pre-drilled holes in the garment rail hanger into the shelf and garment rails.
    8) Secure the garment rail hanger to the shelf & garment rail using 1" long x #8 wood screws.
    D. Shelf Installation:
    1) Lay the shelf back over the installed KSB. Push the back rail downward until it is securly seated.
    2) Drill pilot holes through the back shelf rail midway between each KSB (or at intermediate studs).
    3) Attach the back rail to the log or stud wdl using 2.25" long x #8 wood screws.
    4) On open ends, where shelves extend beyond the KSB, screw the back rail of the shelf directly to the wall about 2" from the end.
    5) Where shelf ends butt walls: A) Snugly fit a Kwik End Bracket (KEB) with 2.25'' long x #8 wood screws. If attaching KEB to drywall, first install plastic drywall sets to receive the screws. B) Snugly fit a Kwik Comer Support (KCS) into the closet corner beneath the back rail of the shelf and drive a 3" screw through the predrilled hole into the wood framing.
    E. Finishing Saw Cut Shelf Ends:
    1) Use fine sandpaper or file to smooth and dress saw cuts.
    2) Apply a dab of color putty to finish sow cuts to match the factory finish as nearly as possible.
    Precautions & Special Conditions:
    1) Log walls usually settle due to wood shrinkage. Avoid using vertical support poles to support shelves on log walls.
    2) When shelves attached to stud framed walls intersect shelves attached to log walls, do not screw intersecting shelves to one another.
    3) As most settling due to wood shrinkage usualy occurs before shelving is scheduled for installation, usually five months into construction, differential movement may be minimal.
    Gregory Cutting Procedures
    Cutting Guidelines:
  • Before every cut, always check the remnants stock of a piece of shelf within 4” of the needed length. If none is available, use an 8’ or 12’ stock length.

  • Put every short piece into the remnants stock for future use.

  • Arrange remnant stock by shelf color, type and length for easy viewing and access.

  • Garment Rail and Deluxe Garment Rail remnants should be maintained in an organized remnant stock, as well.

  • Unless the shelving is being installed in either a series of similar tract homes or in a set of similar condominiums, cut one house at a time.
  • Establish a cutting pattern to reduce errors. For example, begin with the Master Bedroom closet and progress to closets in successively smaller bedrooms. Then move onto bathroom closets, hall closets and pantries. By following a pattern, installers tend to embrace the same pattern and production rates increase without lost quality.

  • Bundle the components of each closet together and clearly mark each bundle to facilitate stocking at the job site to include: Project Name; Lot Number; Floor Level; and Room or Closet Designation. Example: “Forest Oaks/Lot 86a/2nd Floor/MBR.”
  • Wear eye and respiratory protection when operating the saw.

  • Keep your work area clean and organized.
    Remain open to suggestions and listen to the voice of experience.


    P.O. Box 340 Collinsville, VA 24078
    Toll Free 866.629.1730   Toll Free Fax 866.629.2024