1. Confirm that closet is ready: trim, paint and carpet installed. If not, notify client.
2. Confirm layout does not interfere with alarms, fixtures, electrical boxes, etc.
3. Locate high corner and begin layout.
4. Using a modified wire shelving template, mark the top shelf elevation with a #2 pencil. Put the template away.
5. From that first mark, using the 4’ level and pencil, scribe a level line to mark the top shelf elevation at 84” above the finish floor for long hang.
6. From that line, mark the elevation of another line at 42” above the finish floor for short hang.
7. Similarly mark shelf lines for shelf stacks and shoe racks.
8. Using a stud finder, locate and mark each stud along the 84” elevation line.
1. Using the steel tape, measure down each stud line from the 84” elevation line to mark the location of every BC with the pencil.
2. Drill a 1/4″ diameter hole at every BC location. Drill only through the drywall, not
into the wood stud.
3. Snip the anchor wings off each BC before inserting into each hole.
4. Attach BC using #8 x 2” Pan Head screws screwed into each wood stud.
1. Do not snip the anchor wings before inserting in holes.
2. Space BC not more than 12” apart.
3. Attach using #8 x 1” Pan Head screw.
Note: Shelving may be installed without using BC by first drilling 3/16” diameter starter holes through and 1/2″ above the bottom edge of the back shelf rail in line with the center line of each wood stud. Attach the back rail of the shelf to the wall with #8 x 3” Pan Head screws screwed into the wood studs.
1 Using the steel tape and 2’ carpenter’s level, mark a point on the wall 1-3/4″
below the 84” or 42” elevation line previously marked and out 11-7/8” (for 12”
wide) or 15-7/8” (for 16” wide) from the back wall.
2. Drill two 1/4″ diameter holes through the drywall 1-1/16” above and 11/16”
below the mark.
3. Install WEB using a #8 x 2” Pan Head screw into a stud or a #8 x 1” Pan Head
screw driven through to spread the anchor wings.
Note: If shelving is installed without using BC, install the WEB as above except only out 11×5/8” (for 12” wide) or 15-5/8” (for 16” wide) from the back wall.
To avoid splitting rails with screws: Always pre-drill a 1/8” diameter pilot hole through rail before driving a screw into any rail.
For most aesthetic appearance: Before making permanent attachments, temporarily lay shelving in place supported only by BC and WEB. Examine both rails and select the most attractive to become the front rail. Locate and mark to drill each pilot hole.
1 After cutting a shelf to length, note which shelves receive garment rails – then
cut the garment rail to length.
2. Attach the GRH, garment rail and shelf supports before installing the shelf:
1. Mark the location of the garment rail hangers (GRH) on the back side of
the front rail – 1” from either end and spaced evenly not more than 32” apart along the length of the garment rail.
2. Similarly mark the location of the shelf supports so that they align with a
3. Lift the marked shelf off the wall and attach the GRH and shelf supports
along the back of the front shelf rail using the proper screw. Remember to
pre-drill pilot holes.
3. Reset the shelf back on the wall into the BC and WEB for final attachment.
4. Press the back shelf rail to be fully seated in the BC.
5. With the 2’ carpenter’s level, level the shelf and screw attach the shelf support to
the wall using a #8 x 2” Pan Head screw. If a shelf support cannot be located in
line with a stud, a 1/4″ diameter wall anchor must be installed to receive the
6. After the shelf is leveled in place, use a #8 x 3/4” Bugle Head screw to attach
the back shelf rail through the hole in every BC to prevent the shelf from lifting
up when in use.
Support poles are most often used to support stacks or shoe racks. Support poles and the rail to which they are attached must always be pre-drilled to avoid splitting when driving the screw.
1. Measure the height of the highest shelf to be supported.
2. If carpet is to later be installed, compensate for its thickness by deducting
3/8” from the cut length – and later shimming with a scrap of shelf slat
when leveling the supported shelf.
3. Saw a garment rail to the necessary length.
4. Place the support pole in front of the shelf to be supported and mark the
attachment location – then pre-drill a pilot hole.
5. Attach the support pole to every shelf to be supported using a #8 x 1-1/4″
Pan Head screw.
Note: An alternative support pole attachment – attach BC to the back of the support pole and rest the supported shelves into the BC. The result is that screw heads remain concealed for a more aesthetic appearance. Adjust your price to include the added BC cost.
Follow the same sequence as with any other stack of shelves except:
1. Invert each shelf to create a “curb” to keep shoes in place.
2. Snip the “toe” off each BC to enable the inverted shelf to drape at an angle.
3. Shoe shelves over 4’ long must be supported by shoe supports or support
Other than 90° corners: Shelves may be mitered using a compound miter saw. In the absence of a full back rail, support the mitered shelf slats using a LeeRowan® vinyl F Channel (#44590) cut to length with snips. Secure the lower leg of the F Channel to the wall by screwing into a wall anchor.
Scuffs and/or minor splits may be concealed with color matched wood putty.
Follow the wood putty manufacturer’s instructions.
Loosely fitting EC or GREC may be secured using a small dab of hot glue applied
inside the caps.
Note: Gregory Wood Products also produces Kenosa™ Flat Slat ventilated shelving.